This was a glassy day...my 5 day session.. was a perfect day to go deep inside where the waves break and far for the foam waves. To me, was a big step for 2 reasons:
1) I has never been there.
2) I cant do duck diving with my actually big board, so I should paddle against to the water so hard, and sometimes its kinda impossible so, its an easy wipe out. :).
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