Scariest Moment

Surfed Sunset cliffs till dark by myself and didn't realize the tide went up and I was drifting hard core on the inside with big inside stormy reform crashing against the cliffs and the fog came in thick to top it off. I didn't know where I was and couldn't figure out how to get in.
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  • We were surfing Ocean Beach, mid summer. Scott was changing out of his wetsuit in the parking lot. Big JP toweled Scotty, closed the door to the VW bus, and started driving through the parking lot. Scotty was chasing us, BUCK NAKED, through the lot. He wasn't happy. That's my scariest moment.
  • Got my leash caught on a rock at Calafia. Anyone who's ever surfed huge Calafia will know that there are tons of sharp rocks, over the water and right below. Got dragged down three times, with no chance to take a breath. Third time, I was fumbling for my leash, to try and escape, when I was magically released. Got washed in over the sharp rocks, cut up and dinged my board, but thankful for another chance. Paddled back out and got 100 yard plus overhead rights. Yea baby. Getting caught inside at huge Todos, 30ft plus, is always a scare. Getting washed in 100 yards, underwater, into the channel, until your arms feel like they are coming out of their sockets and your out of breath is a close second. Seeing a shark and paddling in, faster than your buddy: priceless.
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