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Scariest surfing tale?

August of 1978. Surfing the rivermouth/point at La Ticla, mainland Mexico. Me and two buddies were the only ones there for a couple of weeks, and hence only the three of us were in the water near dusk that day. My two friends were a couple hundred ya

Scariest Moment

Surfed Sunset cliffs till dark by myself and didn't realize the tide went up and I was drifting hard core on the inside with big inside stormy reform crashing against the cliffs and the fog came in thick to top it off. I didn't know where I was and c

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Scariest surfing tale?

Scariest Moment

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