Do you use a waterproof camera?
Yes
What is your local surf break?
Pacific Northwest (but we don't use names)
What's your favorite surf break?
Those
What far from home surf destinations have you been to?
New Zealand, Baja, Costa Rica, Other Islands
Where is your next surf travel to?
Baja
What type of surfboard do you ride?
8'2" SUP
Share with us a little about you.
Started surfing in '59 and thankfully my body still allows me to surf. Since nearly all my old surf buddies have quit the sport (though not the lifestyle), I too would be but another statistic had it not been for SUP'ing which keeps me going since I can no longer leap to my feet fast enough for the waves I like to ride. Grew up in Venice Beach area (long before POP Pier burnt down). Lived in islands for all of '68. Lived and surfed Canada in '69 then back to Calif. Moved up to Washington in '73 where I had to discover all my own surf spots as there weren't many around here back then. Spend some winter months in islands still, but somehow prefer the uncrowded cold water surf of Washington. We still have something of a 60's vibe up here and can make campfires just about anywhere. Long drives to surf, but same for almost everyone. Now retired from teaching high school photography classes (12 enlargers) + photoshop). Spend most of my time making surf paintings, writing stories and playing congas among musicians. Miss surfing with old friends the most, but having made new ones, they are already becoming old friends themselves. When I switched to an 8'2 SUP, everything changed for the better. The act of surfing is beginning to feel once again like it used to feel when the board responded in-kind. Surfers today have taken the sport to a far different level than I can remember, but watching people like Van Artsdalen and Jock Southerlin surf pipeline, a once young Reno Abellira ride Velzyland, Jackie Baxter & Tommy Russo ride POP Pier at its biggest and best, Joe Chang and Peter Pope & Wayne Miyata ride Santa Monica Pier (early '60s), Greg Jackson ride Topanga helps gives vintage to the sport. At one time I lived in the Rodeo Grounds at Topanga (house flooded 5 times while there), but surfed both my Mike Perry board (he was a neighbor) and/or in my kayak almost daily at the time. Great memories of the people and place. When I visit Southern Cal nowadays, Zero is my favorite place to surf. During the last big swell, I chose to photograph Big Dune, Zero, Secos, Zuma and Malibu. But Big Dume was (I thought) the most awesome of any of those breaks.
Comments
Hey Shontah,
Welcome to the Surf Community
Please feel free to upload some of your surfer shots with us.
Enjoy the site!