Gender

Male

Location

Derry, NH

Do you use a waterproof camera?

No

What camera do you use?

Apple 4, Canon AE-1

What is your local surf break?

NH's Rye Beach, MA's Nahant

What's your favorite surf break?

Ledbetter's, Santa Barbara; San Onofre; Makaiwa Point, HI;

What far from home surf destinations have you been to?

HI

Where is your next surf travel to?

Sorry, I ended up with a broken neck and acute encephalopathy. So I'm now a spectator with a metal neck, a metal shoulder, and cadaver bones in my left foot.

What type of surfboard do you ride?

I used to ride the Yater long board, about 8 and a half feet long. I'm 6'4" and I was a football player.

Share with us a little about you.

I was born in 1950 and grew up in upstate NY, just south of James Fennimore Cooper's Leatherstocking area - beautiful country and a gorgeous place to grow up. In 4th grade I wrote to LA City as part of a school project and I began to get hooked on the area. So, when college rolled around, it was off to UCLA. I met some great guys, off to Zuma Beach, where over the course of the summer of 1971, they taught me to surf. And I went from being the kid from back east to Johnny Zuma. Being a football player and a wrestler, I was able to both knock and wrestle the boards into a modicum of control. Surfing to me was much like skiing; adrift in nature, enjoy it at your and nature's pace, like skiing you move into the blue of sky and water and temper it all by your abilities. The danger is there, however you must balance it, by thinking ahead of it and around it, to enjoy yourself. Later, I joined the LA police and that's where I suffered my serious accidents: one on a motorcycle and one striking me while I was directing traffic. So, I moved back East, leaving many friends and memories behind. But nothing will replace floating on the big gun, waiting for that perfect wave that would carry me out of my earthly body and into the cosmos. But I still have my music to listen to, friends to call, and a chance to ramble on here. Thanks for listening.